An Adjustable Knitting Loom
Click on the Pictures to See Them Larger.
Using the Dream Board as a Round Knitting Loom:
Assembly
1) Insert two bolts into one of the long pieces with the peg grooves facing toward
the bolt heads.
2) Screw on two nuts for each bolt, making them snug with the
long piece.
3) Slip the bolts through the holes in the other long piece with
the peg grooves facing outward. Place the 2 short pieces in between, with
the peg grooves facing outward. Place the
runners of the short pieces into the grooves of the long pieces.
4) Put on the wing nuts and tighten
slightly.
5) Put runners in place. Tighten the wing nuts some more so that the end pieces are
secure.
Repositioning the End Pieces
Are your end piece being held securely in place? If not, are you repositioning
the bolts, so that they are in the closest holes to the end pieces? That's what
all of those holes are for in the side of the loom. Also, when you order extra
end pieces, so that you can make two items at once on the Dream Board, you get a
second set of bolts so that you can place a bolt close to each end piece.
Also, you don't need to use the hex nuts when you are knitting in the round.
They are only needed as spacers when using the Dream Board in the knitting board
setting. If you are using them somehow to hold the round loom together, they
might be interfering with how tightly the bolts can be adjusted. Also, when
increasing or decreasing, it would be a hassle to have to move the hex nuts each
time you move the bolts closer to the new position of the end pieces.
When I tighten the bolts, I tighten one side a little bit and then tighten the
other side a little, going back and forth until both sides are equally tight.
(Don't tighten one side all of the way by itself.) There is a screwdriver slot
in one end of the bolt. If you need to, you could put a screwdriver in the slot
while you are gently tightening the thumb screws.
Calculating the Number of Pegs to Use
on
your Project
Now, with the loom assembled (it will come this way) you need to
determine what diameter you want the knitted tube to be. Every yarn is
different. You need to make a sample of your knitting, using the yarn that you will
be using for your project. See instructions for knitting the stockinette stitch
below. I use eight pegs for this sample. After knitting about
six inches, measure the width of the knitting near the bottom of your work (an
inch above
where you started knitting).
The knitting that
is on the pegs is stretched tightly. When the knitting is removed from the pegs,
the yarn relaxes and the knitting becomes smaller and denser. Lets say your
sample, using eight pegs measures 3 inches wide and you want to make a hat that is 24
inches in diameter. You divide the width of your sample (3 inches) by the
number of pegs used (eight pegs). In this example, the answer is .375 . Let's
call this number the Peg to Inches of Knitting Ratio. This means that we are
knitting on one peg to get .375 inches of finished knitting. If you want a hat
that is 24 inches around, you need to knit on 64 pegs. You get this number by
dividing the diameter of your project (a 24 inch hat in this example) by the Peg
to Inches of Knitting Ratio (.375 inches in this example). 24 inches divided by
.375 inches is 64--the number of pegs you will need for your project. On this
loom, it is impossible to knit on an odd number of pegs. If you calculate that
you need 29 pegs, then knit on 28 or 30 pegs. Since knitting is stretchy, the
number of pegs used is flexible.
Most knitting looms for tubular knitting are
round. The Dream Board is rectangular, with adjustable end pieces so that you
can produce knitted tubes in a variety of sizes. You may be wondering if the
corners of the loom will create uneven spacing between the stitches. As long as
the pegs are spaced correctly, a loom will produce a tube with even stitches. It
doesn't matter if the loom is round, square of even triangular.
Let's return to the example of the hat. We need to use 64 pegs to produce a
24 inch hat. There are 3 pegs on each end piece (a total of six), so subtract 6 from
64. That gives you a remainder of 58 pegs. Next, divide 58 by 2 to determine the
number of pegs on each of the long sides. 58 divided by 2 is 29. Slide one of
the end pieces away from the end until you count 29 pegs between the two end
pieces, including the pegs that are adjacent to the end pieces. Line the pegs on
this end piece up with the pegs on the long pieces so that you could draw a
straight line across all five pegs (including the three pegs on the end piece and the
two adjacent pegs on the long pieces). Take one of the bolts out of its hole and
re-insert it in the hole nearest the back edge of the end piece. Tighten the
bolt slightly. Repeat this process of lining up the pegs
with the other end piece and tighten both bolts so that the end pieces are
secure. Do you have 64 pegs around the perimeter of a
rectangle of pegs? Have your bolts been tightened so that the end pieces will stay in
place? Then you are ready to knit!
The Single Stitch
Called the stockinette stitch if looking at
the front and the reverse stockinette stitch if looking at the back.
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Stockinette stitch: single worsted weight yarn |
Reverse stockinette stitch |
Instructions for the
Single Stitch
for Tube Knitting
Drop the yarn down the center of the loom. Choose a peg that is
on the side of the loom closest to you. Let's call it peg #1. You can attach
it with a slip knot to that peg, or just let it dangle. Leave at least a 6-12
inch tail. Wrap
the yarn around your starting peg, in a clock-wise direction. Continue on around
the back of the next peg that is on the right side of the starting peg, also wrapping the yarn around it in a
clock-wise direction. Continue around the loom, wrapping all the pegs in the
same fashion.
The confusing part is that although you are wrapping each peg in a clock-wise
direction, you will be traveling around the loom in a counter-clock-wise
direction.
Look at the pegs from the grooved side. If you are wrapping the pegs correctly, you will notice the yarn forming a single
strand on each peg . If you are looking at the pegs from the other side (the
side toward
the center of the loom) there will be two strands of yarn crossing to
form an X.
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Three loops |
The same loops from the other side |
Twice around--almost |
After you have wrapped each peg all the way around the loom, you need to go
around again so that each peg has two loops on it.
Remember, you started with peg #1 and have just wrapped a second loop around the
last peg (or the 64th peg in the case of the hat example mentioned above).
This is important: The first loop that you pull off the peg is the loop on the last
peg. You do this to lock the yarn in place so you don't have to worry about the
yarn falling off the loom while you're pulling the loops off the other pegs.
Here it is in more detail: First, pull on the yarn to tighten the loop around the
last peg. Then, using your tool to catch the bottom loop, pull it over the top
loop and over the top of the peg. To get the tool under the loop, stick it in
the groove of the peg, catch the loop of the yarn and pull it slightly out and
up to slip the loop over the top of the peg. Be careful not to lift the tool
very high above the peg as you pull it over the top. Keep it touching the top of
the peg as you pull the loop over. This will help to eliminate the accumulation
of yarn that collects as an extra big loop at the end of a row.
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Grab bottom loop |
Pull it over the peg |
Pulling the loop off the second peg |
Continue pulling the bottom loop over the top loop of each peg until you get all the way around
the loom to where you locked the yarn in place.
Push the loops of yarn down toward the bottom of the pegs to make room for the
next row of loops to be added. Then, wrap the
yarn around the pegs just as you did at the first, by wrapping it around the
pegs in clock-wise direction while moving to each peg in succession to the right
(moving in counter clock-wise direction). Try not to make the yarn too tight
when wrapping the pegs. It should not be difficult to pull the loop over the
peg. If it is so tight that you can't easily bring the loop over the peg, then
you need to wrap the pegs more loosely. If you have trouble with one particular
loop, try removing the loops on some of the nearby pegs first. This will usually
produce some slack in the yarn so that you can easily lift the loop that was too
tight.
It doesn't really matter if you wrap the pegs all the way around
the loom before you start to pull the bottom loop over the top loop. You may
start pulling the bottom loop over the top loop any time after you've
wrapped it with a second loop. In fact, it can make the tension of your stitches
more even if, after you have wrapped the pegs all the way around the loom, you pull the loops over every other peg and then go back and pull
the loops over the pegs that you skipped. Otherwise, you may find that you have
brought the slack of all of the stitches combined back to the starting point,
and you could end up with a loose stitch at the end of each round.
One last comment: If you are left handed, it might be more
comfortable for you to wrap the pegs in a counter-clock-wise
direction. In that case, you will be traveling around the loom in
a clock-wise direction.
What I've just described is called the stockinette stitch or the single
stitch. The stitch that forms
on the backside of the knitting is called the garter stitch.
Instructions for the Single Stitch
for Flat Knitting
This method is the same as for tube knitting except that when you get to the end
of the row you have to turn around. Begin by wrapping all the pegs in a
clock-wise direction, starting on the left side of the loom and moving to right.
At the end of the first row, you wrap the last peg twice in a clock-wise
direction, so that it will have two loops on it, then change directions and wrap the next peg in a counter clock- wise
direction. Continue wrapping the pegs in a counter clock-wise direction until
you reach the left side of the loom. Next, pull the bottom loop over the top
loop of each peg,
starting with the last peg that you wrapped to lock the loose end of the yarn in
place. For the second row, wrap all of the pegs in a clock-wise direction,
moving from the left side of the loom, toward the right, the same as with the
first row. Lift the bottom loop over the top loop of each peg. You are now
on the far right peg. Wrap it and all of the other pegs in the row in a counter
clock-wise direction until you reach the left side of the loom.
Using More Than One Strand of Yarn to Thicken the Texture of the Knitting
You can achieve different textures depending on the diameter of the yarn you are
using. Yarn comes in thin diameter such as fingering and sport weight. Or,
medium diameter such as worsted weight, or heavy yarns such as rug yarn or bulky
yarn. If necessary, you can combine two or more strands of thinner yarns
to achieve the same results that you would get using a bulkier yarn. One strand
of the thinner yarn produces a lightweight fabric suitable for some baby
clothes. Two strands of worsted weight yarn would produce a nice warm hat. One
strand of bulky yarn would work well for slippers. Experiment to see what works
best for your project.
Changing Colors and Using Two Colors At
Once
When you change colors in the middle of
the row, first you knit off the previous row, so that there is only one loop on
each peg, then wrap the next peg with the new color, leaving a 6 inch tail.
Next, you pull the bottom loop over the new-color loop, being careful to hold
onto the tail to keep it secure. When you have finished knitting a few rows of
the new color, you can tie the 6 inch tails of the new color and the old color
together to close up any holes at the color change.
If you are changing back and forth
knitting with two or more colors, it is easier if you pay special attention to
keeping the different colored skeins of yarn on different sides of your chair.
Here is a good method to use if you are changing the colors
often. If you are making vertical stripes with the colors changing every other
peg, first, wrap every other peg on a row with one of the colors, then wrap the
pegs that you skipped with the second color. Secure the two loose ends of yarn
by doing a stitch where you stopped for each color and pull the bottom loops
over the pegs as usual. Repeat this procedure for as long as you need vertical
stripes. If you want diagonal stripes, change the color you start with at the
beginning of each row. A better pattern for diagonal stripes might be two of one
color and one of the second color, other wise the pattern will look like
checkers and not vertical stripes. Any variety of patterns and number of colors
can be used to achieve the effect that you want. Drawing a chart on graph paper
like you would for cross stitch is helpful for more complicated designs.
Decreasing and Increasing
General Notes
1) If you are having trouble transferring the loops, you can put several of
them on a stitch holder (or a large safety pin) first, to give more slack in your
row and then transfer them to their new pegs.
2) You may increase or decrease by more than two pegs at a time on one row
for a more rapid width change OR leave one of the pegs outside the loom until
the next row, in this way changing the width more gradually. Be sure not to
include that peg in your knitting until the next row. At that time, transfer it
over to a peg inside the loom and continue knitting as normal.
For Flat Knitting
Increase
Method #1: If you want to increase the width of your knitted row, you
can simply wrap the yarn twice around the next empty peg in the row, thus
adding one more peg to your project. Then continue knitting as before, except
that each time you come to the end of the row, you include that new peg. This
style of increasing leaves the edge looking more uneven than method #2.
Method #2: A better way to increase is by
creating an empty peg within the row. Move the loops of the last two or three
pegs (or wherever else you need to make an increase) over one peg, away from the
fabric, creating an empty peg. Bring up a loop from the previously
completed row of knitting and put it on the empty peg. This loop that you bring
up is not the strand of yarn running between the two ridges, but the actual loop
that you pulled off the peg on the previous row. It is no longer directly below
the peg because it was moved out of place when you transferred all the loops on
the pegs over one peg. This method will eliminate the problem of having holes at the
increases. Continue knitting as usual. You can make increases near
both edges of the same row or in the center of the row, depending on the pattern
you are using.
Decrease
Method #1: To decrease the width of your knitted row, you transfer the
loop from the last peg onto the peg next to it instead of wrapping either peg.
Then you pull the bottom loop over the top loop as usual. Use method # 2
for a smoother edge on your knitting.
Method #2: To decrease the width of your knitting within the
row, you transfer the loop of your choice over one peg, making it be the second
loop on that peg. Next, you move all the other loops on one side of your
project over one peg to fill in the gap. Continue knitting as usual, except that
when you get to the peg with three loops on it pull the bottom two loops over
the top one. See the section on decreasing in tube knitting.
Note: if you always increase or decrease on a peg within the project
and not right on an end, you will avoid having a nubby edge to your project. And
the angle of the increase or decrease will be less drastic.
For Tube Knitting:
Notice!! This is impossible to do with a single
round knitting loom. But IS
possible with the Dream Board.
Increase
Loosen the
bolt that is keeping an end piece tight and slide that end piece down to be
aligned with the next set of pegs on the long pieces. Don't retighten the bolt
yet. You have just created two empty pegs in your project. They are the two pegs
on the long pieces which are adjacent to the new position of the end piece. If
this is not where you want the increase to be, then choose which two pegs in
your project you want to be empty. Transfer all the loops on the pegs over one
peg, re-adjusting where the empty pegs are. Now you can retighten the bolt.
Bring up a loop from the previously completed row of knitting and put it on the
empty peg. This loop that you bring up is not the straight strand of yarn running
between the two ridges, but the actual loop that you pulled off the peg on the
previous row. It is no longer directly below the peg because it was moved out of
place when you transferred all the loops from the pegs over one peg.
This method will eliminate the problem of having holes at the
increases. Continue knitting as usual.
Note: If you are planning on doing this in a project, start your
project near the center of the loom, so that you have room to move the end
pieces outward.
Decrease
Do you want to make an "elf's" hat? One with a long tapering point with a
tassel on the end? This is how you do it with the Dream Board: Loosen the
bolt that is holding an end piece tight and slide that end piece one position
closer to the center of the loom. Align the pegs on the end piece with the
new set of pegs on the long pieces. Tighten the bolt. Transfer the two loops
that are now outside the loom (the old corner pegs on the long pieces) to the
pegs which are now adjacent to the pegs on the end piece, making them be the
second loops on those pegs.
If this is not where you want the decrease to be, then do the following:
Choose which two pegs you want to use. Don't transfer the loops off the pegs
that are outside the loom yet. First, transfer all the loops on the pegs over
one peg, putting the double loops where you want the decrease. Leave empty pegs
at the ends of the long pieces, then transfer the loops that are on the pegs
that are outside the loom onto these empty pegs. Ignore the double loops where
you have decreased, for now. Knit the next row as usual, except that when you come
to the two pegs where you decreased, (Note that those two pegs will be the only
ones with three loops.) pull both of the bottom two loops over the top loop
instead of just one, as you normally do.
Now, whenever there are new holes available, reposition the bolt to a
set of holes closer to the end pieces. This will keep the end pieces securely in
place as the loom becomes smaller.
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The end pieces moved inward, showing
the pegs that are now outside the loom. |
Pegs outside the loom with loops on
them. |
Taking a loop off an outside
peg and putting it on the new corner peg.
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Removing Project From Loom
Method #1: The Gathering Method
A Gathered Edge for a Closed-end Tube, such as a Hat or the
Toe of a Slipper
You now have knitted the last row of your project and have one loop on each
peg. Cut the yarn, leaving a 12 inch tail. Thread the tail of
yarn into a large, blunt needle with a large eye. Then, insert the needle
through the loop that's on the peg to the right of the peg that the tail is
coming from. Pull the yarn all the way through the loop and remove the loop from
the peg. Insert the needle through the loop of the next peg and so forth until
all of the loops are threaded onto the tail of the yarn. Next, you carefully pull
the yarn to gather the loops together, closing the hole in the end of the tube.
Tie a knot and thread the tail back through the knitting to hide it. Trim the
end. See Tying the Last Knot and Hiding Yarn "Tails" below.
A Flat-edge for a Scarf or Afghan
Follow the same procedure as we did for a gathered edge, except that the tail
length that you leave for threading through the loops should be about 12 inches
longer than the edge of the finished project and you don't pull on the tail to
tighten. The end is tied off in the same way.
Method #2: Using a Crochet Hook
You now have knitted the last row of your project and have one loop on each
peg. You are going to knit a "chain" stitch along the edge of the knitting to
lock it in place. This is how you do it: Insert a crochet hook into the loop on the
last peg and pull the loop off the peg, keeping it on the crochet hook. Do the
same with the next loop, keeping them both on the crochet hook. Wrap the yarn
around the hook-end of the crochet hook and pull the yarn through the first loop on
the shaft of the crochet hook. Again, wrap the yarn around the hook-end of the
crochet hook and pull the yarn through the two remaining loops on the shaft of the
crochet hook. There is now one loop on the crochet hook. Insert the crochet hook
into the loop on the next peg and pull the loop off the peg. Wrap the yarn
around the hook-end of the crochet hook and pull the yarn through the first loop on
the shaft of the crochet hook, just as you did before. Repeat this procedure,
taking each loop off the remaining pegs one at a time, until the entire edge of
the knitting is locked in place. When you have completed removing all the loops
from the pegs, cut the yarn, leaving a 12 inch tail. Take the last remaining
loop off the crochet hook, thread the end of the tail through it and pull tight.
Tie a knot and thread the tail back through the knitting to hide it. See Tying
the Last Knot and Hiding Yarn "Tails" below.
Tying the Last Knot and Hiding Yarn "Tails"
Insert the needle into a nearby stitch and pull the yarn through until the
loop is almost closed. Insert the needle into the loop that is almost closed and
pull it tight. Repeat this a couple more times. This will keep the end of the
yarn from coming loose.
You will always have at least one "tail" dangling about when you have tied
your last knot. Hide those loose
ends by running them through the center of some stitches inside the hat. You do
this by threading the yarn "tail" onto a large-eyed needle. Then
insert
the needle into the knitting and run it inside the stitches for several inches.
Pull the needle to tighten the strand of yarn and cut the yarn close to where it comes out of the
knitting, letting the end slip back into the stitching. If any of the
tail is still showing, trim off the excess.
After knitting twice the width of the cuff that you want to have on your hat,
pull the beginning edge of the knitted tube up through the center of the loom.
Choose a peg. With your finger, follow the ridge from where the knitting is
looped onto the peg up to the beginning cast-on stitch. Place the loop of the
cast-on stitch over that peg. Continue around the edge of the cast-on stitches,
placing each loop onto the adjacent peg. When you're finished, each peg will
have two loops of yarn on them--a cast-on stitch looped around it along with the
loop from the last stitch that was knitted on that peg. Be sure that these two
loops are part of the same ridge otherwise the knitting won't lay flat. You
don't want it to be crooked, like when you button up a shirt starting with the wrong
button.
Pull the bottom loop over the top loop to knit that row.
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Ridges |
Putting the cast-on stitch over one peg. |
Cast-on stitch over one peg. |
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Cast-on stitches over three pegs. |
Cast-on stitches over all pegs. |
Done |
Pom-pom
Wrap yarn around 2, 3 or 4 of your fingers, depending on the size of pom-pom you
want to make, keeping your fingers flat. The number of times you wrap the yarn
around your fingers will determine the density of the the pom-pom. Experiment to
see what is best, considering the thickness of the yarn you are using and the
desired look. For instance, less yarn might produce a pom-pom that is only half
a ball such as you would put at the top of a hat. Using more yarn would produce a full
pom-pom ball to put on the
ends of a string-tie.
Wrap a 24 inch piece of yarn around both thicknesses of the yarn bundle,
encircling the part on the front of your hand, as well as on the back of your
hand, passing the yarn between your middle fingers. Tie a knot to secure the
yarn tightly. Wrap the yarn around the bundle several more times and tie
again. Keeping the yarn wrap in the center of your hand, cut the loops of the
pom-pom where it is wrapped around the right and left edges of your hand. Fluff
up the ball and trim any extra-long parts, so that it is round. Use the
excess tail from the yarn wrap to attach the pom-pom to your project. You can
substitute a piece of cardboard with a slot down the middle instead of using
your hand if that would be easier for you.
You can combine different colors if you want a multi-colored pom-pom or use
only one color if you want a solid color.
Using the Dream Board as a Knitting
Board
Assembly
1) If you are using the Dream Board as a round knitting loom, take it apart to
switchover to a knitting board.
2) Insert two bolts into one of the long pieces with the peg grooves facing toward
the bolt heads.
3) Screw on two nuts for each bolt, making them snug with the
long piece.
4) Slip the bolts through the holes in the other long piece with
the peg grooves facing outward.
5) Put on the wing nuts and tighten.
This
will give you a crack between the boards the width of the two nuts. If you want
to knit with a wider crack, adjust the distance of the second nut so that when
the second long piece is tightened in place with the wing nut, there will be a
gap between the two nuts. The wider the gap between the two nuts, the wider the
gap between the two knitting boards. You can also put only one nut or washers on each bolt
between the two boards. This is good when knitting with thinner yarn.
To Learn
How to Calculate the
Number of Pegs to Use on Your Project, See the
Instructions Above
Instructions
Drop the yarn down the center of the loom. Choose a peg that is
on the side of the loom closest to you. You can attach
it with a slip knot to that peg, or just let it dangle. Leave at least a 12
inch tail. You use many of the same techniques here as you do for knitting the
single stitch as described above. So, I will
let you refer to that section for the details of how to knit. The main exception
is that instead of wrapping around adjacent pegs, here you cross back and forth
between the two rows of pegs on the parallel knitting boards. There are many
different patterns that you can use, each one creating a different looking
stitch.
Standard Cast-on Stitch: first step
Starting on the left, on the row of pegs farthest away from you, wrap the yarn around
the first peg in a counter-clock-wise direction.
Bring the yarn down to the row of pegs closest to you. Wrap the yarn in a
clock-wise direction around the peg that
is directly in front of the peg that you just wrapped. Bring the
yarn up to the row of pegs farthest away from you, wrap the yarn around the next peg
in a clock-wise direction. Continue this pattern, until you reach the end of the
row. On the first row only, make sure to wrap the yarn twice around the last peg
so that it will have two loops. Work back toward the left side of the loom
with the second step of the standard cast-on stitch described below.
Standard Cast-on Stitch: second
step
Starting on the right, on the row of pegs closest to you, wrap
the yarn halfway around the first peg in a clock-wise direction.
Bring the yarn up to the row of pegs farthest away from you. In a
counter-clock-wise direction, wrap the yarn halfway around the peg that is
directly behind the peg that you just wrapped. Bring the yarn back down to the
row of pegs closest to you, wrap the yarn halfway around the next peg in a
clock-wise direction. Continue this pattern, until you reach the end of the row.
Lift the bottom loop over the top loop of each peg. This completes the standard
cast-on stitch.
This is what the two steps of the standard cast-on stitch look
like when combined.
Stockinette Stitch
Cast on the desired number of stitches, using the standard
cast-on stitch for the first two
rows. Knit off the bottom row of loops. For the third and all other rows, wrap
the pegs as follows: Starting on the left, on the row of pegs farthest away from
you,
wrap the yarn halfway around the first peg in a clock-wise direction.
Bring the yarn down to the row of pegs closest to you. Skip the peg that
is directly in front of the peg that you just wrapped. Instead, wrap the yarn halfway
around the next peg to the right in a counter-clock-wise direction. Bring the yarn
back up to the row of pegs farthest away from you, skip the peg that is directly
behind the peg that you just wrapped. Then wrap the yarn
halfway around the next peg to the right in a clock-wise direction.
Continue this pattern, skipping one peg between each wrapped peg, until you
reach the end of the row. Work back toward the left side of the loom with
the same wrap on the pegs that you skipped except, the
direction that you wrap will be reversed. You will be wrapping counter-clockwise on the
back row of pegs and clockwise on the front row. Lift the bottom loop over the
top loop of each peg.
Knit One, Purl Two
Cast on an even number of stitches, using the standard cast-on stitch for the
first two rows. Knit off the bottom row of loops. For the third and all other
rows, wrap the pegs as follows: Starting on the left, on the row of pegs closest
to you, wrap the yarn around the first peg in a clock-wise direction.
Bring the yarn up to the row of pegs farthest away from you. In a counter-clock-wise
direction, wrap the yarn around the peg in the back row that is directly
behind the peg that you just wrapped . Wrap around the next peg to the right,
also in a counter-clock-wise direction. Bring the yarn down to the row of pegs
closest to you, wrap the yarn around the next peg in a clock-wise
direction. Wrap around the next peg to the right, also in a clock-wise
direction. Continue in this manner, wrapping two pegs on the back counter-clock-wise,
then two pegs on the front clock-wise, to the end of the row. Lift the
bottom loop over the top loop of each peg.
Work back toward the left side of the loom with the same wrap, except, the
directions that you wrap will be reversed. You will be wrapping clockwise on the
back row of pegs and counter-clockwise on the front row. Lift the bottom loop
over the top loop of each peg.
In order to keep straight ridges, make sure you wrap the yarn around the same
pair of pegs each time.
Using the Dream Board as a Corker
Which is really knitting in the
round without the end pieces. With the end pieces, the smallest tube you can
make uses12 pegs. To make tubes with less than 12 pegs
you take the end pieces out and bolt the long pieces together with one or two
nuts between the long pieces. Then knit using two, three, or four of the pegs
(or more) just as you do for knitting in the round with the end pieces in place.
